Sunday, 29 September 2019

Budapest — Béla Bartók Boulevard and Buda Castle

Fortunately for my hunger, I already had a lunch spot picked out, on Béla Bartók Boulevard, just to the south of the bath and hotel complex. This is a major thoroughfare with dual tram lines running down the middle, but fairly quiet because it was Sunday.
I had pita and hummus in a vegan cafe. It was a delicious and filling meal.
But I also had my eye on dessert. Down the boulevard is Stühmer sweets and coffee shop. The brand has a long history. Friedrich Stühmer came from Hamburg in 1866 and settled in Pest. The chocolates he made became sought after and widely consumed. After WWII, the business was nationalised. In 2004, an entrepreneur, Péter Csóll, acquired and reinvigorated the brand, and has built factories and outlets.

It looks like chocolate overload on the table, but what I had was absolutely the real deal.

With the amount of energy consumed, I had to work it off, so I walked back to the Danube bank.
Then I walked up the steps to the Fisherman's Bastion.
Apparently it takes its name from the guild of fishermen on this bank of the Danube who not only plied their trade but also defended the castle in time of war.
A view of the Danube and Pest from the bastion.
Next to it is Matthias Church.
This, a search tells me, is a statue of Stephen I.
I can only imagine what it must be like in high season.
Another side of the church.
I caught the bus down the hill. The decoration on this building caught my eye.

From there I took a tram back to the guest house and rested until the evening.

Budapest — Gellért thermal bath.

I wanted have a thermal bath experience, so I headed down to the Gellért Thermal Bath.

It was on the Buda side so easy to reach from my lodgings, and what better day than Sunday to relax?
There are several baths in the city but this one was renowned for its art nouveau interior.

Some of that beautiful stained glass.

Hungarian thermal baths are very organised, not unlike taking a cultural tour: you line up for tickets, you follow a set path, have the experience, and come out enlightened. Or at least refreshed and relaxed.
You get this high tech wristband which is not a watch, but an electronic key that gives you access to a locker of your choice.
The main pool inside the bath.

I did not use this pool because one is required to have a swimming cap and I did not.

In case you are wondering, I didn't risk my phone. I brought a waterproof camera for this excursion.
Another view.

There are smaller pools on the perimeter with spa water gushing out of several taps and people take turns to get a water massage under the tap. I took advantage of these for almost an hour. The ticket allowed me all day use but I wasn't intending to stay that long so I wanted to make the most of the morning.
On the roof level is a large outdoor pool. It didn't look popular, probably because the water was cold. It was also quite deep and not for beginners.
But not to worry, another level up there was a hot pool.
A closer look.
Near the pool is a sauna hut.
A brazier with hot rocks keeps the room hot and steamy.
When you emerge you can have a heart-stopping plunge in a cold tub if you wish.
Then go back to the hot pool which got more crowded as the morning wore on.

I repeated the routine a couple of times.
The pool is set in a garden with classical sculptures.
Nearby is a beer garden where one can have after bath drinks.
I went down to the outdoor pool and sunned myself on a deck chair for a while.
Flower beds on the perimeter.
We are under Gellért Hill of course and the statue of a woman holding a palm leaf.
Statue in an alcove.
Mosaic wall.
Entrance to stairs or other room.
Well, that was a relaxing experience, but all good things must come to an end. I was feeling ravenous after all that relaxation so I set off in search of lunch.

This is the Liberty Bridge outside the hotel complex the baths are part of. Fövám Tér and the Central Market Hall are on the other side of the Danube.

Saturday, 28 September 2019

Budapest — Margaret Island

For the afternoon, my plan was to visit Margaret Island (Margit-sziget), a fluvial island in the Danube. I took a tram which runs across the Margaret bridge (Margit hid).

Margaret Island was made by connecting three separate islands.
I got off at the stop in the middle, like many other people, and walked down the entrance road to the island. It's a public park and recreational space, and vehicles are only permitted as far as the entrance to drop off or pick up. There is a public bus running in an island loop for people who cannot or do not wish to walk.
This is the Centenáriumi Emlékmű, a sculpture at the entrance.
The musical fountain. I dozed off in a chair listening to the music for about a half of an hour.
The wide paved paths and benches.
Flower bed.
Dahlias I think.
Marigolds?
Some variety of daisy I guess.
A local.
I didn't get all the way to the northern tip of the island. I got tired and decided to call it an afternoon. I walked back to Margaret bridge to catch the tram. There was this view of the Hungarian Parliament Building.
The castle district with the spire of the Matthias church poking out.

And that was the end of my explorations for the day.

Budapest — Fény Street Market

Since I had the run of Budapest with my multi-day transport ticket, I didn't have to worry about the cost of zipping to any destination that took my fancy. I had been advised to look out for lángos which is deep fried dough, a popular street food. The shop that online guides recommended, Lángos Land, was in Fény Street Market, near Széll Kálman Tér. It's in the top left corner and its signs are all over the market.
It's very popular and there was a short queue.
This what I got. Many people have it with sour cream or cheese, but I opted for one with garlic. I can still feel the bite of the fresh garlic.
Fény is a general produce market. There are stalls with home produced goods.
A connecting passage takes one to the Mammut (Mammoth) shopping centre which has a supermarket on the ground floor where I bought a few things, such as bottled drink, pastries and snacks. I was to come back later to eat at the food court on the top floor.

To be continued after digesting lunch.